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Gabs, the talking beak . . .
Every yarn you select should have the proper
qualities that make it well worth your knitting time.
Ten years ago, Mom told me a story about her
youth. Her own Mother, not having had one extra
dime to spend, bought a yarn called Sayelle (I’m not
sure that’s how it’s spelled). She purchased it at one
of those big discount stores. It was cheap, had lots
of yards and felt soft. Anyway, Grand mama knitted
a coat for Mom. Mom proudly wore it to school.
Upon disembarking from the school bus, Grand mama
noticed Mom was not wearing her coat. Gram was
concerned – Mom would catch a cold, plus, where
was the coat? Upon second look, Gram saw that it
was rolled up in Mom’s arms. The first question, of
course, was why aren’t you wearing your coat?
Silently Mom put it on. In one day the coat grew to
the floor and well beyond. Would it have been a
great fit if Mom was about 6’4” tall! So, what’s the
point of this story? All that work for nothing.
Mom learned a lesson that day too. She won’t knit
with a poor quality yarn. She says she’s way too
busy to spend time on a fiber you can’t count on.
So, how do you know what yarn is right for you? You
might find the following information helpful to you.
WOOL
A wool fiber is so strong and flexible it can be bent
on itself 20,000 times without breaking. Because it is
so flexible, it is “forgiving.” It stretches and recovers
well. Wool can absorb up to 30% of its weight in
moisture and not feel damp or clammy, making it
perfect for winter wear items. Old wool that looks
pooped can be place by a humidifier to restore itself.
Wools easily repel dirt, and most odors leave wool
when aired out overnight. Wools can be dry-cleaned
or hand washed in cool water. Wool is also used
for “boiled wool” items such as handbags, jackets,
computer cases, etc. (check the next Gomez Gabs
article on “ Felting.”)
The quality of a wool depends upon the sheep.
Longer fibers with smaller diameters make a more
lustrous, softer yarn. They are spun in the
worsted
method – combed to align. Short, coarse fibers
create a fuzzy yarn.
Summer weight wool, also known as tropical, is sport
weight, baby weight or fingering weight. It has the
same benefits of worsted wools, but creates a
lighter, cooler fabric. Wool is dyed in batches,
known as dye-lots. You should buy enough of
a
single dye-lot to complete a single project because
similar colors may have different dye-lots and
ultimately will not match. If you get stuck with
different dye-lots, call the store and we’ll tell you
about seeding.
Here are some wool terms you need to know:
- New wool, virgin wool: never been used
before.
- Lamb’s wool: the first coat (fleece)
sheered from
a six- to eight-month-old lamb.
- Merino wool: spun from the fine long-
fibered
fleece of the Merino sheep, which originated in
Spain.
- Icelandic wool: from a unique breed of
sheep
isolated in the sub-artic climate of Iceland; it has a
glossy sheen, similar to mohair. Traditionally,
Icelandic yarn is a blend of coarse, long outer fibers
and soft undercoat.
- Shetland wool: from sheep native to the
Shetland
Isles of Scotland. Traditionally made into heathered
yarn.
- Superwash wool: treated with resin to
make it
machine washable.
CASHMERE
Cashmere is known as the aristocrat of fibers. It is
soft, light weight and glorious to touch. A perfect all-
year fiber and comfortably worn next to the skin, it is
the most expensive yarn because it is time
consuming to produce.
ALPACA
Alpaca is as soft as silk with dramatic draping
qualities. The alpaca has a cashmere-like fleece that
is so soft and fine it was once reserved for Andean
royalty only. It can be comfortably worn next to the
skin. Alpaca has a hollow hair-like structure that
gives it a “thermal efficiency.” It is seven times
warmer than wool and lighter in weight than most
merino wools. Because it contains no lanolin, it can
be worn by people who have difficulty wearing wool.
It resists pilling and wears well after time. Alpaca has
no elasticity or memory so it can “pull and stretch”
with gravity; therefore, edging is important. Alpaca
is the only family of animals with a naturally occurring
pure jet-black fiber.
ANGORA
Angora is a luxury fiber that comes from the long-
haired coat of the Angora rabbit. Combed angora is a
higher quality and more expensive.
MOHAIR
Mohair comes from the fleece of the Angora goat.
Often blended to stabilize the yarn and reduce the
cost. Mohair is glossy, highly insulating, and water,
wrinkle and flame resistant.
Kid mohair: comes from first few shearings of
a kid
goat. It’s as soft as baby hair and luxurious next to
the skin.
COTTON
The cotton plant ripens into a fluffy fiber called “lint,”
used to weave into cotton yarn. It is soft,
absorbent, and breathable. It’s static-free, non-
allergenic and comfortable year round. Two of the
highest quality strains of cotton are “SeaIsland”
and “Pima.” Pima is from the prized
Egyptian cotton
seeds. Mercerized cottons have a high sheen from a
special treatment.
SILK
Silk is prized for sheen, strength, drape and warmth.
It is unparalleled in lightweight luxury and refinement.
It feels wonderful next to the skin. Silk has wonderful
definition, excellent for showing up detail beautifully.
Pure silk is hard to come by; most silk is blended.
SOY
This is an environmentally friendly fiber made from
tofu manufacturing waste. Soy protein is liquefied,
extruded into long fibers and processed like any other
spinning fiber. Soybean fiber is being touted as
a “vegetable cashmere.” It has a soft-to-the-feel,
second–skin comfort, luster, loft and drape combined
with washability, durability and good wear. Soy
silk
feels like a cross between cotton and linen. Cool for
summer wear. Soy wool can felt.
BAMBOO
Bamboo is a regenerated cellulose fiber that comes
from the bamboo plant. Most bamboo yarns use no
chemical additives. The fiber itself is biodegradable
without causing pollution. Bamboo fiber is praised
as “the natural, green and eco-friendly new-type
textile material of the 21st century.” It has a
particular and natural function of anti-bacteria,
bacteriostasis, and deodorization.
LINEN, RAMIE AND HEMP
These are plant-derived fibers. They provide a crisp
drape, are highly absorbent and have little elasticity.
Linen: from the flax plant. It is usually dyed
in a
process that is NOT colorfast. Therefore, it must be
dry-cleaned to prevent running.
Ramie: a manufactured, shiny, spongy fiber.
Hemp: a type of cannabis. Recently made
suitable
for yarn and woven cloth.
CHENILLE
Chenille can be 100% cotton, cotton/acrylic or
viscose blends. It has a velvety surface. On the
down side, chenille has a tendency to “worm.” It
has little elasticity; therefore, ribs and turtlenecks
look limp.
MANUFACTURED YARNS
Rayon: also called viscose, is made
from liquefied
wood pulp. When blended with other yarns, it has
good elasticity, decreases fraying and pilling
problems. Do not press it; it will collapse.
Expect s-t-r-e-t-c-h with wear.
Nylon: also called polyamide, is strong and
that
makes it an excellent reinforcement for the heels and
toes of socks.
Acrylic: is designed to mimic the properties of
wool.
It can bounce back into shape. It’s stronger than
wool and wicks moisture away from the body
All the manufactured yarns are machine washable
and non-allergenic.
PACKAGING
Let’s talk about packaging. Yarn is sold in balls,
skeins, hanks, spools and cones. Hanks are pretzel-
shaped coils and need to be wound into balls. Spools
and cones are usually reserved for commercial
purchase.
Weight: This actually refers to yarn thickness. From
thin to thick, it’s known as:
Fingering weight - rec. needle size: 0 -
3
Baby yarn (2 or 3 ply) or sport weight -
rec. needle size: 3 - 5
DK (double knit) - rec. needle size: 4 -
6
Worsted weight (Aran) - rec. needle
size: 6 - 8
Light chunky - rec. needle size:
9 - 10
Regular chunky - rec. needle
size: 9 - 11
Bulky - rec. needle size: 13 - 15
Ply: refers to the number of individual threads
twisted into strands.
If you acquire some mystery yarn and can’t
determine its fiber content, this might help. Hold a
lighted match to a strand. Cotton will burn, acrylic
and nylon will melt and wool will singe, putting out
the flame.
GOMEZ WITTICISMS
If you are at a gala party and want to WOW your
friend with some great yarns, try these:
Silk production was an extremely guarded Chinese
secret. The first peoples to acquire the skill from the
Chinese were the Japanese, but not until 300 B.C.
Cashmere does not come from Kashmir, a region in
India. It comes from the coats of goats native to the
Himalayas.
90% of mohair production comes from goats raised in
Texas.
In 50 A.D. the Romans built a wool plant in England.
The largest wool industries are found Australia, New
Zealand, and South Africa. Animal Rights groups tell
that sheep sheared in New Zealand are done
inhumanly. They are sheared so close to the skin as
to cause wounds and infections. Karma,
being “human and animal rights” conscious, no longer
purchases N.Z. wools.
Columbus and Cortez brought sheep for merino wool
to the new country.
Wool prohibition, not just tea, incited the American
Revolution.
In Biblical times, the wisemen’s robes were made of
mohair.
Cotton as a textile is ancient. Pieces found in Mexico
are 8,000 years old.
Ancient Babylonians worshipped a benevolent god in
the form of a long-haired Angora rabbit.
This really bothers me (says Gomez) cause if they’d
known about me, their benevolent god would have
been a parrot and we’d all be knitting in feathers!
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